The rest of the story

When I rolled into Duluth I just happened to run into John and Teddy (the terminally happy big yellow dog) on a walk to the hardware store. It was one of those timing/coincidence things that are just hard to fathom.  I took them up on their hospitality and spent the balance of the day mostly relaxing.  I took them out to dinner at Zeitgeist on Superior St. It is a fun place with good and interesting food if you are in Duluth. John agreed to drive me to Hinckley to meet Kelli.  We left the next day early enough that we had time to enjoy the expansive salad bar at Cassidy's restaurant just off the I-35 exit. John waited around for a while until Kelli arrived just at the time we had planned.

It was good to get home. To give Kelli a hug and enjoy her great cooking again. And of course to give the Chance dog a hug as well. The bags got unpacked and I was feeling relaxed and relieved. Being away from home on a trip like that has its own particular challenges for all involved and were all happy to be back together.

The previous day in Duluth I had spent some time scouting out options to get to Sault Ste. Marie, ON to retrieve my car. I was delighted when my old college roommate, friend for 50 years, Rick Fletcher said he could drive with me. We would leave on Friday, drive to SSM, Michigan, as Rick's passport was not current, and I would ride my bike across the International Bridge to get the car in Canada. Rick and I had a really nice time on the drive. We had certainly not had that much time together for 50 years. With stops and losing an hour to the time zone the drive took 11 hours.  By the time we checked in to our luxury suite at the Budget Inn we were ready for a walk and a brew.  Luckily we got both with a stroll to the Wicked Sister 6 blocks down the street.  Good food and good local craft beer selection. 

Next morning we followed the local recommendation to do breakfast at Frank's Place downtown on Portage Ave.  Convenient because I could ride on Portage right to the entrance to the bridge.  It was a quiet, beautiful morning.  Another great breakfast on the road.  I got the bike ready to ride and we each went on our way. Rick drove alone the whole way back and made it to our house with Kelli's car about 8:30 on Saturday. Heroic.

The ride over the bridge, which I have done once in each direction, was easy again. Actually easier without 50 pounds of gear, and the traffic again was very light, again. Did not measure but I am thinking it is a good 2 miles across and quite a view from up there.

I knew my way to the Watertower Inn.  Easy to spot.  There's a watertower there. The car was fine. Undamaged, still clean and full of petrol, as we say in Canada.  I headed north on route number 17, the Transcanada Highway to see what I had missed riding.  It was not long, only a few miles out of Soo, when I first thought, "I could not do this".  Well, obviously, but really, seeing it made my decision not to continue all the more appropriate.  The Canadian side of the the lake is much different than the US side.  Very mountainous and wild.  There are a lot of parks and attractions and several small towns but the country is absolutely gorgeous and awe-inspiring. I am so glad I drove it and saw it and so glad I did not find myself in the middle of it and unable to go on, as opposed to having that realization 50 miles from Duluth.

Jim and I had kept in touch and the plan was for me to watch for him on the road as I drove and he rode and we could connect for a few minutes.  That is what happened as I saw him as he approached White River, ON. I turned around on the highway and we stopped and chatted for several minutes.  Jim looked good and seemed unfazed by the hills and the highway.  I was just as happy to drive on but very proud of Jim who was on track to finish 3 days earlier than our original plan.  Jim did finish yesterday, 3 days early, and arrived home today.

So, I did get all the way around the lake.  In a car for the most challenging part, and more than halfway on the bike, for the easier part. I will take it.  It is what it is.  Happy to have been able to give it a try.

All good things........

Here we go again. This is not the first time this has happened. I am ending the trip early. I think I have now confirmed the limits of my mental and physical capacity.

So far on the trip I have felt pretty good most days with pace and distance of our rides. I know that Jim could definitely go faster and longer but he is very tolerant of my capacity. He knew it coming in from our previous rides. With the wind and the temperature yesterday and the days of riding I had reached my limit. I also think I have a real limit on my days away from home alone.

Jim could see it and at breakfast he brought the subject up, that if I had reached the end he was OK with my stopping and going back. Our location in Silver Bay, within easy reach of Duluth, and the ability to take up John on his offer for 'rescue' if needed, made the decision easy, given my mental and physical state. I was not feeling completely out of gas, but certainly knew that my legs did not have a lot of headwind and climbing miles in them at this point. So I did.

We had another unexpectedly great breakfast at the Northwoods Family Grill in Silver Bay. Stop there if you are in the area. It is really a great surprise. I saw Jim off to ride to Grand Marais on his own with a mix of regret and relief. I would be heading home with a tailwind. I rode back to Duluth after talking to Kelli. John and Chelly graciously offered to have me stay at their place again. Also, John offered to drive me part of the way toward St. Paul so Kelli had a shorter drive to come pick me up.

So now I just need to find a way to get to my car in Sault Ste. Marie. We will figure it out.

Tailwinds Jim.

Back home to Minnesota for a brief stay

Up and out of the Port Wing cabin with a quick microwave breakfast of yesterday's pancakes and butter and syrup from the Bear's Paw. We hit the road at 6:30, wanting to get to Duluth with some time in the afternoon for a bike shop visit and a look around Canal Park. There were also some unknowns about getting through Superior and to the bridge to cross. The day was another sunny one with some west wind which would at times be in our face but it was not that bad. Temps

We were on route 13 again until we got to a trail that would take us in to Superior. The highway was good again all the way as it stair-stepped it's way for 34 miles to our turn just short of US2. There were several steep down and up river crossings on the way. There was also a lot of flat Wisconsin countryside. Not as forested as previous days. Had a couple of rest stops before we finished with highway 13.

When we got to the trail it was as suspected, gravel. But there was no choice to use the highway as non motorized were prohibited. So we ventured forth on the trail and found it not too bad if we stayed on the edge where it was firm. Got to the start of the paved trail and we were more than ready for second breakfast. There across highway 2 was Choo Choo's Restaurant.  Hard by the tracks of course. We are in there!

Had a good meal, got good advice on getting through the city and we were ready for the rest of the day with bellies full. Something one learns when getting directions from a local who is not a bicyclist is that you must keep reminding them "we are on bicycles". Our well meaning waiter's first response was to direct us down US 2. Heavy, heavy traffic, four lanes and zero shoulder. So, no we will be on the trail. Once we got it clear his directions were perfect.

The trail is in need of maintenance but got us to our street to cross Superior and get to the path that crosses the Bong Bridge which carries US2 to Duluth. The path was adequate width for us but if we had met anyone it would have been tricky. We got across,with some photos at the top, and on to streets I am familiar with, having transited Duluth in the past. Jim needed to find a bike shop for new brake pads and that required some back tracking with assistance from a guy in a truck who asked if we needed help and ultimately he drove past the shop to make sure where it was and then found us again to confirm. Pretty special people in Duluth. We went Twin Ports Cyclery on 3rd Ave. Great shop. Got stories from the owner Denis while we waited. Including advice to ride over the bridge on the road, not the path. Not sure there will be another time for me.

Made it to Canal Park so I could show Jim the lift bridge and the fun center of the port city. Had an ice cream cone at Grandma's rail car.

We had been updating our Warm Showers hosts as we progressed through the day. They were leaving the house in east Duluth at 2:30 to go to a wedding but would leave the front door of the house open.

Warm Showeres is an international organization of people who sign up to host traveling cyclists. Marybeth in Negaunee was one. And the Schmidts of Duluth are as well.

We got on the Lakewalk trail along the shore and turned off on 40th Ave which runs past Duluth East HS and on to Schmidt's. We had fair warning about Teddy the dog and were reassured he would be no problem. Indeed. We opened the door, called his name and were greeted with a lick and a smile. You do pay for that super friendly demeanor with lots of petting and scratching.

We showered and relaxed and went to dinner at the New London Cafe down the street. Very good hot roast beef with mashed potatoes and gravy. John and Shelly returned about 7:30. We had a great time trading stories. They were full of questions. Their daughter and son-in-law are on a round the world bike tour and they had just returned from having met up with them in South Korea. We talked a bit about families and careers but mostly about how we travel on bikes.

In the morning we packed up our clean clothes and the Schmidts made us a grade A+ breakfast. We took pictures, including Teddy of course.   The day was partly sunny and windy. We got underway at 8:30. Took the rest of the Lakewalk trail to join up with the Scenic North Shore Drive.
Up and out of the Port Wing cabin with a quick microwave breakfast of yesterday's pancakes and butter and syrup from the Bear's Paw. We hit the road at 6:30, wanting to get to Duluth with some time in the afternoon for a bike shop visit and a look around Canal Park. There were also some unknowns about getting through Superior and to the bridge to cross. The day was another sunny one with some west wind which would at times be in our face but it was not that bad. Temps

We were on route 13 again until we got to a trail that would take us in to Superior. The highway was good again all the way as it stair-stepped it's way for 34 miles to our turn just short of US2. There were several steep down and up river crossings on the way. There was also a lot of flat Wisconsin countryside. Not as forested as previous days. Had a couple of rest stops before we finished with highway 13.

When we got to the trail it was as suspected, gravel. But there was no choice to use the highway as non motorized were prohibited. So we ventured forth on the trail and found it not too bad if we stayed on the edge where it was firm. Got to the start of the paved trail and we were more than ready for second breakfast. There across highway 2 was Choo Choo's Restaurant.  Hard by the tracks of course. We are in there!

Had a good meal, got good advice on getting through the city and we were ready for the rest of the day with bellies full. Something one learns when getting directions from a local who is not a bicyclist is that you must keep reminding them "we are on bicycles". Our well meaning waiter's first response was to direct us down US 2. Heavy, heavy traffic, four lanes and zero shoulder. So, no we will be on the trail. Once we got it clear his directions were perfect.

The trail is in need of maintenance but got us to our street to cross Superior and get to the path that crosses the Bong Bridge which carries US2 to Duluth. The path was adequate width for us but if we had met anyone it would have been tricky. We got across,with some photos at the top, and on to streets I am familiar with, having transited Duluth in the past. Jim needed to find a bike shop for new brake pads and that required some back tracking with assistance from a guy in a truck who asked if we needed help and ultimately he drove past the shop to make sure where it was and then found us again to confirm. Pretty special people in Duluth. We went Twin Ports Cyclery on 3rd Ave. Great shop. Got stories from the owner Denis while we waited. Including advice to ride over the bridge on the road, not the path. Not sure there will be another time for me.

Made it to Canal Park so I could show Jim the lift bridge and the fun center of the port city. Had an ice cream cone at Grandma's rail car.

We had been updating our Warm Showers hosts as we progressed through the day. They were leaving the house in east Duluth at 2:30 to go to a wedding but would leave the front door of the house open.

Warm Showeres is an international organization of people who sign up to host traveling cyclists. Marybeth in Negaunee was one. And the Schmidts of Duluth are as well.

We got on the Lakewalk trail along the shore and turned off on 40th Ave which runs past Duluth East HS and on to Schmidt's. We had fair warning about Teddy the dog and were reassured he would be no problem. Indeed. We opened the door, called his name and were greeted with a lick and a smile. You do pay for that super friendly demeanor with lots of petting and scratching.

We showered and relaxed and went to dinner at the New London Cafe down the street. Very good hot roast beef with mashed potatoes and gravy. John and Shelly returned about 7:30. We had a great time trading stories. They were full of questions. Their daughter and son-in-law are on a round the world bike tour and they had just returned from having met up with them in South Korea. We talked a bit about families and careers but mostly about how we travel on bikes.

In the morning we packed up our clean clothes and the Schmidts made us a grade A+ breakfast. We took pictures, including Teddy of course.   The day was partly sunny and windy. We got underway at 8:30. Took the rest of the Lakewalk trail to join up with the Scenic North Shore Drive.

We headed out into a steady and strong headwind. Coming right off the lake at an angle that was not conducive to easy riding. Stopped at Tom's Lumber Camp for a break. Made decent time given the wind and counted down the miles in reverse with the markings for Grandma's Marathon. We had our lunch at Subway in Two Harbors. When we came out the temperature had drop and we put on more clothes. Now we were on Highway 61 and the traffic level was much worse than before. The wind continued relentless. The climb up around Silver Creek Cliff on the bike trail was longer than I remembered. Finally, by the time we reached Gooseberry Falls my energy was all used up. When we reached Split Rock SP it began to rain and the wind picked up some more. We had tried riding on the road instead of the trail to a more direct route but it was not comfortable. So in Split Rock the trail curves and climbs and descends all over the place not that much fun when you are exhausted. We finally got to the park entrance building and took a break from the rain.

We went on past Beaver Bay. We had talked about how tired I was and agreed instead of camping at Tettegouche SP we would find a motel room. Silver Bay is only a couple miles from our intended destination so despite the troubles we are not behind.

The Mariner Motel was the first we saw and we went to check out a room. It is impressively clean and a classic with knotty pine walls. It is run by a delightful old Polish couple. Chatting and kidding with them helped turn my attitude around from feeling defeated.

We ordered spaghetti and lasagna delivered from the local pizza place and had a relaxing dinner in our comfy room. Thunderstorms rolled in and we were happy to not be in the campground. Watched the Penquins win the Stanley Cup. Tomorrow is another day.
We headed out into a steady and strong headwind. Coming right off the lake at an angle that was not conducive to easy riding. Stopped at Tom's Lumber Camp for a break. Made decent time given the wind and counted down the miles in reverse with the markings for Grandma's Marathon. We had our lunch at Subway in Two Harbors. When we came out the temperature had drop and we put on more clothes. Now we were on Highway 61 and the traffic level was much worse than before. The wind continued relentless. The climb up around Silver Creek Cliff on the bike trail was longer than I remembered. Finally, by the time we reached Gooseberry Falls my energy was all used up. When we reached Split Rock SP it began to rain and the wind picked up some more. We had tried riding on the road instead of the trail to a more direct route but it was not comfortable. So in Split Rock the trail curves and climbs and descends all over the place not that much fun when you are exhausted. We finally got to the park entrance building and took a break from the rain.

We went on past Beaver Bay. We had talked about how tired I was and agreed instead of camping at Tettegouche SP we would find a motel room. Silver Bay is only a couple miles from our intended destination so despite the troubles we are not behind.

The Mariner Motel was the first we saw and we went to check out a room. It is impressively clean and a classic with knotty pine walls. It is run by a delightful old Polish couple. Chatting and kidding with them helped turn my attitude around from feeling defeated.

We ordered spaghetti and lasagna delivered from the local pizza place and had a relaxing dinner in our comfy room. Thunderstorms rolled in and we were happy to not be in the campground. Watched the Penquins win the Stanley Cup. Tomorrow is another day.

What's the opposite of Murphy's Law?

This was a day when what could go right did. Perhaps the exception proving Murphy’s law.
When we woke up there was a dark sky in the west and we assumed it was headed toward us and quickly packed up and rode into town for breakfast, foregoing breakfast in camp. The dark clouds drifted north of us. We stopped in the first restaurant we passed. It had ‘help wanted’ signs everywhere and not many customers so we took a chance. Turned out that the Time Out Cafe had a top ten breakfast. The ‘Sportsman’ included two eggs, bacon and hash browns and a side plate of dollar cakes. Which turned out to be huge pancakes. What could go right did.
We left Washburn bound for Bayfield. The ride had some big hills, one I think a 10% grade. We stopped to rest and have a snack.
We started out from the town with several little stair step climbs, and then a great miles long decent into the tribal village of Red Cliff. From there the road turns inland to cross the peninsula. The road was unimaginably great. Smooth as silk. No cracks or bumps of any kind. Traffic was very light and no big trucks. Beautiful countryside. Some big long climbs and reward at the top with fantastic views and flying descents. This could not have been a more perfect ride. We rolled the final descent into Cornucopia, Wisconsin’s northern-most village, and the temperature must have dropped 20 degrees as we approached the town on the lake. Made the turn on to their little main street and found 2 places to eat and a sunny picnic table to have lunch. There was a little toddler and her mom sitting on another table having a snack. We had a little conversation about how much she liked to bike with her mom and her dad. It was about noon. Perfect. We usually do not get lunch right at noon, if at all. Defying Murphy, every thing was going right.
Rolled out of Cornucopia toward our destination for the day, Port Wing, 14 miles away. Road turned a little less perfect, but still very good. About 6 miles down the road we could see that the predicted afternoon thunderstorm was indeed developing. We stopped and put on full rain hear. Rode into Herbster, little village at the halfway point, and the storm hit. And right in front of us was an abandoned gas station with the pump canopy. We got under and barely got wet. The storm was very intense with thunder and an intense downpour. It would have been very un-fun to be in it. We waited for 30 minutes or so and the rain stopped. We had a few drops fall on us but not a big deal. Murphy’s what?
Port Wing has 2 bars, a restaurant, a store and a campground with cabins. With the wet ground we opted for the cabin. Rustic it was. But serviceable. Showers were in the building for the campground and, campground showers, were quite nice. We strolled over to the Bear Paw restaurant next door and had a great dinner. It looks to be family owned and run. Mom cooks, son helps in the kitchen, daughter waits tables and dad does it all. The food was good and the place was very friendly. After dinner we asked if they could spare some syrup and butter so we could eat our pancake from the breakfast in Washburn. ‘Of course’. No Murphey there. People are so nice. Overall we could not have expected a more perfect day. Go right it did.

Back to business

Wednesday. Day after the day off.
One of the fun things of the day off was finding the 'Curbside Cafe' a few hundred yards down the road from the hotel. It was just a little trailer parked in a small patch just off the road with a rug of artificial grass in front and a few tables. We had lunch at a table in the sun there. I had pulled pork and it was delicious. Jim had a cheese burger which he rated as very good. So we went back for dinner and had boaster chicken and potatoes. I got Jim's coleslaw too. Nothing green for him.

In the morning we were up at 5:30 and at breakfast soon after 6. The motel had a great free breakfast with eggs and sausage and waffles and all the other usual stuff.  We took just a few extras for snacks later. Snacks are critical. Can't do it without 'em.

Rolled out at 7:30. Had decided on a different route than original to cut off a few miles. This took us down M-64 south to Berglund on beautiful Lake Gogebic. We made good time with a decent road, a light tailwind and little traffic. A right turn took us on M-28 to Wakefield. Little town, home to Indianhead ski resort, set on another beautiful lake, Sunshine. Nice name. We were definitely looking for lunch at that point and what do you know, we just happened to stop right in front of Ma's Cafe. Ma was not in but her helpers were so we had a nice lunch. I had a cod sandwich which I am sure was Lake Superior whitefish, but it's good too.

One last leg out to Little Girl's Point CG. It was a fantastic day. Really could hardly have been better for riding. Cool, not too much wind and the best part was a long downhill at the end of the day. At Ma's we had received confirmation from locals on the route to take out there and it was a bit more than 20 miles still with a few hills to climb. But not at the end. We rolled down in and saw our first wildlife other than squirrels, rabbits and mosquitos. A whitetail deer. Exotic. It looked like it was remote enough to be bear country but apparently not.

Little Girl's Point is a lovely spot. The camp caretaker registered us and told us the site we took is good be cause the sun rises over the Porcupine Mountains in the east and gets you up early.  He was right. The light woke me at 4:45. I went back to sleep briefly. 

Looking out over the lake one has the Porkies to the east and the Apostle Islands off Bayfield, WI to the west. Pretty cool. 

Porkies

When we had rolled in to camp we were just getting set up when a guy on a bike rolled in and said hi. He and his wife had rode around the lake on a tandem would years ago. He asked if we would like a hot shower (the campground had none) and we thought long and hard and finally, a nanosecond later, said sure. 

So we were clean and we got back and had our dinner in camp and had a nice rest. Next morning the sunrise over the Porkies was stunning. There had been some showers overnight so we were not sure what we would be facing in the morning but it was cloudy but clearing and we got off again to climb away from the lake toward US2, which Jim and I know well from our cross country ride in 2005. We looked for the first place we could for second breakfast after oatmeal in camp. That turned out to be the Bad River tribal casino outside Odanah, WI. We each stuffed ourselves and headed back out on to the road on another perfect day. Got through Ashland and made the turn north toward Washburn and the slight tail wind turned into a head wind off the lake. The last 9 miles did me in. We stopped for a late lunch at Coco's and then found the very nice Memorial campground. We are situated on Chequamegon Bay and again it is very beautiful. 

Catching up continued.....

Sometimes the technology defeats me.

The Su under Jim's duplicate pic means nothing.

We arrived at Marybeth's to be warmly greeted  by a true Trail Angel. We cleaned up our bikes and hung our wet tents in her garage took a shower in her steam shower and boy did that feel good. Then we got personal service in the cafe and were fed like you would not believe.  Marybeth's home above the bakery is lovely and very comfortable. We slept well. Jim made the breakfast in the morning with the makings Marybeth supplied. We had a beautiful, restful, if short, stay with her. Such a generous person.

Next day, guess what? It was raining. Only difference being the wind was stronger. Headwind of course. And then I got a flat. At that point I was over the top exasperated. Good to have a calming partner. By 3 hours into the day we had gone a whole 15 miles. So we kept on going. And amazingly later the sky cleared, after Tioga creek.

Tioga creek

At that point we made good time and got only a couple of miles short of our original goal, in L'Anse, MI. We stayed in a motel because of continued rain in our future. 

Ate at the home of the monster sweet roll the Hilltop Cafe. They ship them. You can look it up. 

Yesterday we got on the road again before the rain and made it to the top of the first long climb before it started. Then it was rain off and on all morning but the wind was not bad. It was manageable but by the time we got to the Pit Stop on route M-26 we were really ready for a big lunch. The weather seemed like maybe it would improve again like yesterday as we went in to eat. When we came out 45" later it was colder, windier and raining. We got on down the road. 12 miles to Ontonagon and 13 miles to Silver City. At times the wind almost felt like it was pushing us but it was hard to know we were so cold and wet. Hot chocolate at Lucy's in Ontonagon helped. Then blessedly it was flat as a pancake all the way to Silver City. It felt so good to arrive and it feels good to rest today. Tomorrow the weather turns and it will be our last day in the U.P. 

Relaxing and catching up in the U.P.

It has been three days since I had wifi which could get my blog site open to write and today is our first rest day so I have the luxury of time to think and write. Jim and I are in Silver City,MI at the AmericInn. It is hard by the Porcupine Mts. and Lake Superior.  I am sitting in the lobby looking out at the gray sky and branches swaying to the NW wind. If the rain started it would be a reprise our last three days. But let's go back and review.

Our day in the Munising campground began early so we could get out of camp before the rain began. We skipped breakfast because we were sure there would be a place for breakfast down the road a piece. We beat the rain, which began a few miles down the road, at the lovely pond of a creek dam.

Still no breakfast place. Gotta be there soon. Well, not. As we approached Marquette, 4 miles out in Harvey was Macdonald's. Not our first choice. But we were 32 miles into the day with no real food. It was real enough here. It had been raining steady since the pond and when we stopped it began to downpour. We took our time at Mickey D's. It let up a bit and we got on the bike trail called the Iron Ore Heritage Trail. It leads to, through and out of Marquette. Very nice along the lake shore and then a turn in downtown Marquette which starts the trip away from the lake and up 1000 feet over about 8 or 9 miles on the way to our destination at the home of Marybeth Kurtz above her Midtown Cafe and Bakery in Negaunee. As we rode through Marquette there was a large area of tents for a festival and signs 'Race in Progress'. Little did we know the race was coming at us down the trail as we rode up the same. Meanwhile, the rain continued to fall. All the way up. Trail was paved for a couple miles and then well compacted crushed rock. As long as the trail went up (it was about a 3% grade) the trail was very firm despite the rain. Later when it flattened out and went up and down a bit that changed and it got very soggy and soft and started messing with our drive chains a bit. And then the racers came. We had to keep our heads up. There lots of biker banter as we rode the 'wrong' way. Jim told them we already finished the race and we're headed home.

Su