Down hill fast (it's a good thing)

Day 6 Ellensburg, WA

Days like this are the ones that keep me coming back to this crazy passion.  It was not an easy day but it was filled with remarkable riding experiences.

We started with breakfast at the Big Y Cafe next door to the Wedge Mountain Inn.  Jim has convinced me that his favorite breakfast on the road is a really good one.  That is, french toast, one egg and bacon.  Good balance of carbs, fat and protein.  Self supported touring is great if you love to eat because you can just about eat whatever and as much as you want.  You need it to be high quality food though, not junk.  So we ordered the same breakfast but had to get an extra order of french toast because the menu item had just two small slices.  

So we were off to a good start to get us part way up the long, long climb to Blewett Pass.  This was 22 miles long and was all climbing.  On most of these long mountain climbs there are some areas of downhill, which is a mixed blessing because you do have to climb that much again to get over the top, but it does give the legs a break.  On this climb there was no break.  It was all up.  Most of it was very manageable but there were a couple of stretches where it was 8-9%, the most difficult being, of course, right at the top after we had been climbing for 3 hours.  

Along the climb we were treated to some of the most beautiful mountains, rushing creeks (big and full of glacial water with its characteristic clear green color), huge pines, massive rocks, and a meditating hawk up on a branch.  Hawks are good luck I hear.

At the top we got a picture together with the 'Blewett Pass, elevation 4102 ft' sign.  We had climbed 22 miles and 3000 ft in 3 hours.  The downhill was a good experience, the top being fairly steep and then levelling out a bit as we descended.  All that went by a little too fast to describe but the scenery did not seem as spectacular as the climb.  The whole descent was about 14 miles.  We stopped in the midst of it to have a meatloaf sandwich lunch.  Then we continued the descent to the bottom of 3 mile climb which was leading us to our destination in Ellensburg.  On the climb we could see the huge snow covered dome of a distant mountain, probably Mount Rainier.

As we crested the climb we turned slightly and started down another long descent, this time with a wicked wind AT OUR BACKS!  Can you believe it?  We couldn't.  This descent was also 14 miles in to Ellensburg. It was great fun riding that far and hardly needing to pedal. 

Ellensburg is the home of Central Washington University and is the county seat of Kittitas County.  We have found a wonderful little Italian restaurant already.  This is our planned day off so we will be here Sunday and Monday and rest the legs.  

Hope the tailwinds decide to stick around a couple of days.

A Mighty Wind

Day 5  Peshastin, WA

We started the day riding along a beautiful road of rolling hills right on the shore of Lake Chelan.  Had a good breakfast at the Apple Cup Cafe in Chelan.  The lake is glacialy formed.  It is 52 miles long and 1500 feet deep.  Quite an amazing site.  At the end of the trip along the shore is the steepest climb we have had this trip, up to 10-11%, but not too long.   We met a couple from Tacoma who were visiting the area and riding.  At the top we started down a long, about 8 mile, downhill to the Columbia River again, hoping the winds would not be anything like yesterday when the headwinds were very strong.

As we descended the final steep section to the river we were hit with some wicked cross winds that almost knocked us off the road.  As we turned the corner the wind disappeared.  This was just a taste of what was to come.  We got down to Alt US 97 and turned to head south along the Columbia.  The headwinds began and it was, I have to say, brutal.  There were times in gusts where it seemed like we were stopped in our tracks.  I literally blew Jim off the road once.  It seemed relentless.  And then suddenly the headwind was gone and we had a stong tailwind for a couple of miles.  And then a crosswind and then a headwind again.  It felt like the wind blew from every direction but it definitely blew nonstop.

One of the other highlights for me was the massive orchards everywhere among the hills and mountains.  All the way from Chelan to the end of the day we passed apple and cherry orchards.  We stopped in the fruit store and got an apple and an ice cream cone.  We passed by Wenatchee, the 'apple capitol of the world'.  The World!  I believe it because the orchards are immense and looking at just one tree I think I could see as many apples on the tree as I have seen my whole life.  It is amazing, truly.  One of the benefits of riding at the speed of a bicycle is the chance to really see what you are passing by.  And today, the wind made it even easier because we were going even slower than usual.  

We finally made it to Cashmere, our planned stopping point.  We felt pretty tired from the battle with the winds and did not see a convenient campground so we have ended up in a motel again.  This was OK because it gave us a chance to watch the Celtics and Heat.  Unfortunately the Heat won. 

This is our second epic day I would say with the winds.  Along the Columbia River the wind must have been a steady 30mph with gusts to 50.  Not like Rainy Pass in the snow, but epic none-the-less.

Hoping for tailwinds tomorrow.

Now, that's better (by far)

Day 4 Chelan, WA

On beautiful Lake Chelan.  Well, I haven't actually seen it but I am sure it is beautiful.  Anyway, compared to yesterday, which is getting worse each time we tell the story, this was a gorgeous day.

Started in Twisp at the aforementioned Methow Valley Inn, Prop. Terry _____(?)(Terry, you fill in the blank please.  My apologies).  What a great refuge from the work a day world.  If you are ever "in the valley", go there.  We had a great rest and woke to good folks having easy converstion, including a surprising concentration of crazy cyclists like us.  Breakfast was to die for.  Baked French toast with blueberries and cream cheese was the headliner.  But there was a bowl of melon and grapes, hot cereal with barley and wild rice, pure maple syrup of course, and the usual cold cereal, juice, bananas, etc.

It truly was delicious.  We had a wonderful time telling stories and sharing contact info with Chris and Nancy from Alaska and with one of the other inn-keepers whose name I forget (I am so bad) but who really got into the story sharing because we had each done the cross country bike thing and Chris and Nancy are 4 days into their cross country bike thing.  As we orgaized our gear and bikes on the porch everyone was gathered round and giving us way too many cudos for our organization and efficiency.  We had an enthusiastic photo session with all of us on the porch and good wishes all around and we were off, the day promising to have some scattered showers but no life threatening conditions and we were confident of going off into the world again.

So, that is how it went.  The ride was down the Methow River valley toward the Columbia River, which I had never seen before.  So it was mostly down hill and very pleasant.  We had advice to follow a county road instead of the main highway and it was great.  Quiet and serene rolling past big hills and ranches, and the swirling Methow River.  We ran into an Adventure Cycling supported tour group at Carlton and had a chat with them.  They are on the Cascades Loop tour and have all their gear carried, for a price, while we just carry our gear and suffer ;)- After we saw them we did run into some rain and had to put on our rain jackets.  There were, all told, a couple of sessions of rain for 20 minutes or so each.  Enough to make me nervous it might not stop, but it truly was scattered.

We stopped for lunch in Pateros where the Methow meets the Columbia.  The day was brightening and looked promising.  We called ahead to Mom's Motel in Chelan and got a room.  The Prop. said if we got a flat or had any trouble to call and he would help out.  Biking brings out the good in many people :)).  

The after lunch surprise was the head winds along the Columbia.  These were serious winds.  We estimate 30-40 mph.  We had to work to maintain 10 mph going downhill.  So, when we made the turn on the road to Chelan it was welcome to be out of the wind and actually in some warm sunshine for the first time this trip.  I remember warm sunshine, it's nice.

Nice dinner at a too expensive Italian place but the meatballs were fantastic.  Now we are getting sleepy.  Talk latter.

How bad can it get? How good is it?

Day 3  Twisp, WA

This was always planned to be a big day.  We knew we would be doing our best to get over two big passes and then fly down hill for 18 miles.  When I rode the same route in 2005 the day was sunny and warm and I had a bicycle club riding at the same time providing encouragement and even water and food.  It went pretty well that time.

The weather this time, as I said, was not supposed to be good for us.  We were expecting rain starting in the night and waking up to rain.  Breakfast was planned for the counter in the washrooms (which had no showers).  We woke at 4:30 (not a typo) spontaneously, without planning it.  There was no rain falling.  We said let's get going.  So we made a quick breakfast, broke camp and were on the road at 6:15.  This is an early start and normally portends an early arrival at the destination.  We started up the Rainy Pass highway in 40 degree temperature and cloudy but not threatening skies.  The first few miles of the route are fairly steep and make a tough start to the day before you are warmed up.  But, it is what it is.  We got past that and then for quite a distance it is fairly easy, even with some downhills which helped get some distance in a timely fashion.  When we are climbing a 5-9% grade our speed may vary from 7 to 3 miles and hour.  Not too fast so it is welcome when a flat or downhill section appears and we can pick up the pace.

We got in about 15 miles before the rain started.  Then we also got into some more steeper sections.  We stopped a few times to rest and eat since our breakfast, a bowl of oatmeal, was not really up to our standards, or needs.  It was still just midmorning and it looked like, if all went well, we could make our destination by midafternoon.  A few miles further, around 20 I think, things changed.  It started to snow.  It got colder.  We pressed on but when we made one of our now more frequent stops along the road lined with two foot piles of snow (old snow, not today's snow), we determined that we would make it to the top of Rainy Pass and then flag down a vehicle to haul us over Washington Pass and down the other side.  So, after some painful climbing the last three miles or so we made the summit and stopped.  My feet were soaked and cold.  Hypothermia was a thought.  We waved our distress signal to a passing RV towing a pickup, that would be perfect, to no avail.  A couple of SUVs stopped to check us out but had no room.  Finally, after several vehicles passed at speed, another pickup stopped.  In it was gentleman with a little whiskered terrier in the front seat.  He said immediately, you may need to sit on a lap but I will take you over the pass.  He immediately set to work shifting his pickup bed into hauling mode, grabbing our panniers from us and helping us load the bikes into the pickup.  We found room in the two seater, with Jim on the console and the terrrier in our laps and were on our way.  The heater was turned way up and we soon were back to a much more comfortable state.  Mick, our Good Samaritan, is a great guy.  He told us all about the country we were driving through, pointing out landmarks and spectacular peaks and spires.  Only problem being, we could not see any of them because of the heavy clouds and fog.  If we had tried to negotiate that stretch of highway it would have been perhaps the most unsafe thing I have ever done.  And I am really not into unsafe.  We were in no shape really to do the climb up Washington Pass, even in good conditions and these conditions could almost not be worse.  Cold, snow, fog, steep climb.  Bad.  

So, we were safe and warm in a nice pickup with a very friendly driver and friendlier 14 year old pup.  Mick asked of course where we planned to stay tonight.  We said Mazama.  He asked would we be willing to go to Twisp, which is about 25 miles down the road and on our route.  We said of course if there is a place to stay.  So happens his friend owns a B&B. He gave him a call and found he did have room and so here I sit in the Methow Valley Inn.  It is great.  Brewpub a block and a half away, laundry, other friendly bikers, fire in the fireplace, a bike shop to clean our bikes.  Not sure how the day which was such a grind could end much better.  Another example of the amazing and wonderful things that happen on bike tours if you are open to it.  

Now we are debating whether to take tomorrow off since it supposed to rain again.  Can not stay here but the innkeeper is going to make some calls and find us a place for tomorrow if we decide to stay over.  

Eventful day.  Tomorrow promises to be much calmer.  Hope I am right.

Now we are in the mountains

Day 2  Colonial Creek Campground

Because we spent the energy to ride the extra 25 miles to Concrete yesterday it made today's ride quite a bit easier.  We started the day rising at 5 am.  I thought the time zone change would make us sleep in, but it was the other way around.  We had breakfast at the cafe next to the motel and chatted up some locals, who gave us the unwelcome news that tomorrow is rain, and where we are going, possibly snow.  Oh well, we will see.  

It is about 42 miles from Concrete to the campground destination.  The ride involved some serious climbing for he first time, especially the last 9 miles from Newhalem to Colonial Creek.  The day was overcast with some very occassional sun barely penetrating clouds.  Marblemount is the last real town before the campground, about 22 miles away.  We got there about 10:30 so we had plenty of time and we were wanting to get some lunch but the restaurants in town did not open until 11 or 11:30.  So we waited and got to meet Nick, a local oldtimer who told lots of stories of the old days and panning for gold in the area we are riding to tomorrow.  He advised we skip the restaurant and hit the train caboose conversion BBQ place, which had a smoker going outside and smelled mighty good.  Just as we were waiting for it to open, some rain began and we had visions of riding in the rain a day before we expected to and setting up camp in the rain after climbing in the rain.  It was not an inviting prospect.  Luckily the showers blew past and the afternoon was cool but relatively pleasant.   We started the climb up from Newhalem to the campground about 1:30 and stopped a few times to admire and photograph the spectacular mountains we are in.  It truly does look like the Alps.  There are glaciers and frequent cascades of water down the mountain sides and huge rock cliffs covered in moss.  Along the route the first few miles a gorge which leads to a power hydroturbine facility in Newhalem.  At the top of the gorge, extending for miles, right up to our campsite, is Diable Lake behind Diablo Dam.  When the time is right, the dam spillways are opened, the gorge fills with hard rushing water, down to the turbines and Seattle has light!  Not sure when they decide to do that but it was not today as the gorge had relatively a trickle of water.  

At the campground we met a young couple who are getting married this weekend in Mazama on the other side of the passes we cross tomorrow.  He was getting his bike ready to ride over the passes this afternoon and she was driving the car to Mazama to await him.  They gave us the unwelcome confirmation that it will rain tomorrow and the chance now is said to be 100%, instead of 80%.  We expect to get wet.  I will let you know how that turns out.  Plan B in case of intolerable conditions is thumbs out and snag a passing pickup truck.  John Coleman told me years ago, "An hour in a pickup is worth a day in the saddle."  True.  More from Mazama on the 'morrow.

Day 1: Solid as Concrete

Day 1  Concrete, WA

It is always bittersweet saying goodbye at the airport.  Kelli took the traditional picture of me waving goodbye and then the be safe kiss goodbye.  The flight was uneventful other than the seat in front of me being fully reclined as long as it was legally possible.  Oh ya, and then the 'aborted approach' where you are descending normally and suddenly start climbing again for reasons you only later learn are totally 'routine'.  Anyway, all ended normally.

From the Seattle airport I got on the shuttle to Burlington and then met Jim at Skagit Cycle and we got everything together and semiorganized.  We hit the road about 3:30.  After a couple stops for stove fuel and camp food we rode for a few miles and then stopped around 4:00 for 'breakfast' in Sedro Wooley.  Then we hit the road in earnest and rode nonstop for 2 hours to get to Concrete.

The route is mostly on South Skagit Highway which follows the Skagit River.  The river is glacier water green.  Not the slimey green of algae but a very clear, clean green.  You know that water was just high in the Cascade Mountains.  The highway winds through rainforest-like terrain with moss encrusted old Douglas firs and small tumbling streams running down to the river and fern forests.  It is really like an enchanted forest.

In 2005 I stopped often to take pictures of it all but today we just rode.  We would each take a turn in front for 1/2 to 1 mile pulls and drafting behind the leader to get a little rest.  Luckily there was not really any climbing.  That starts tomorrow.

When we got to Concrete we went down the road where Jim's Garmin said there should be a motel.  Cascade Mountain Inn.  Sounded good but it really looked closed, not in business.  There was an older (probably my age) Japanese couple standing outside a minivan, the only vehicle in the parking lot.  They asked if we needed help.  Two guys with bikes loaded with gear standing in the middle of an empty parking lot.  Why would they ask that?  Well yes, we need a place to stay.  You can stay here.  Really?  It's open?  Yes.  Their son, Sunny (or Sonny?) showed us a room and at the end of a long day of travel and riding we were happy with it.

Got some pizza from Annie's Pizza Station next door and now we are getting ready to collapse in bed and get rested for tomorrow when the climbing begins, but gets real serious the next day.

One Day To Trip Start

It is time to get started writing about this trip.  Day before it starts, filled with last minute 'to dos' and nervousness.  At this point a month looks like a long time, for me and for Kelli and for my faithful pet (Chance).  

The bike and gear were shipped and have arrived at Skagit Cycle in Burlington, WA.  The boarding pass is printed and I have reviewed my list of items to pack way too many times.  

Tomorrow Jim Smith and I will meet at the bike shop, get the bikes and gear ready to go and head out for our first night's destination.  It will likely be raining and depending on when we get under way and the weather we will go somewhere between 10 and 30 miles.  That will get us in position to ride into the Cascades on Wednesday and over Rainy Pass and Washington Pass on Thursday.  I am looking forward to that night in a soft bed in Mazama, WA.  I followed this same route the first 3 days of my cross country trip in 2005.  I remember Mazama fondly as it was a welcome end to a hard day of climbing and descending.  That year I crossed with the Redmond, WA cycling club and talked my way into joining their end of day banquet.  Stayed in a B&B and had a great breakfast the next morning.  Also, a personal forcast from the B&B host who is a weather service observer and had all of the NWS software to tell us exactly how long the rain that morning would last.  Fond memories now to be overlaid with some new, hopefully even better ones.

It is always a nervous time just before a trip like this, especially as the years and health issues accumulate.  Have I trained enough?  No.  That is easy.  Can I make it through the first few days until my legs toughen up?  That we will see.  Is this really the right thing to do, to leave the home and wife to fend for themselves all this time?  Well, I think it is.  Nothing is free or easy and we all need to indulge ourselves from time to time if we can.  Life, as they say, is short.  And don't we all see that more and more everyday.

I hope this system for the blog works well.  I will try to write something everyday and then upload it when I get WiFi access.  This iPad is pretty cool.  It just hyphenated a word by itself.  It is different than what I am used to though so I hope I can learn how to do it right as we go along.

I have a couple more things to get done today, writing this was one of them, and then I get a massage later from my favorite therapist.  That should get me all ready to go tomorrow.