How bad can it get? How good is it?

Day 3  Twisp, WA

This was always planned to be a big day.  We knew we would be doing our best to get over two big passes and then fly down hill for 18 miles.  When I rode the same route in 2005 the day was sunny and warm and I had a bicycle club riding at the same time providing encouragement and even water and food.  It went pretty well that time.

The weather this time, as I said, was not supposed to be good for us.  We were expecting rain starting in the night and waking up to rain.  Breakfast was planned for the counter in the washrooms (which had no showers).  We woke at 4:30 (not a typo) spontaneously, without planning it.  There was no rain falling.  We said let's get going.  So we made a quick breakfast, broke camp and were on the road at 6:15.  This is an early start and normally portends an early arrival at the destination.  We started up the Rainy Pass highway in 40 degree temperature and cloudy but not threatening skies.  The first few miles of the route are fairly steep and make a tough start to the day before you are warmed up.  But, it is what it is.  We got past that and then for quite a distance it is fairly easy, even with some downhills which helped get some distance in a timely fashion.  When we are climbing a 5-9% grade our speed may vary from 7 to 3 miles and hour.  Not too fast so it is welcome when a flat or downhill section appears and we can pick up the pace.

We got in about 15 miles before the rain started.  Then we also got into some more steeper sections.  We stopped a few times to rest and eat since our breakfast, a bowl of oatmeal, was not really up to our standards, or needs.  It was still just midmorning and it looked like, if all went well, we could make our destination by midafternoon.  A few miles further, around 20 I think, things changed.  It started to snow.  It got colder.  We pressed on but when we made one of our now more frequent stops along the road lined with two foot piles of snow (old snow, not today's snow), we determined that we would make it to the top of Rainy Pass and then flag down a vehicle to haul us over Washington Pass and down the other side.  So, after some painful climbing the last three miles or so we made the summit and stopped.  My feet were soaked and cold.  Hypothermia was a thought.  We waved our distress signal to a passing RV towing a pickup, that would be perfect, to no avail.  A couple of SUVs stopped to check us out but had no room.  Finally, after several vehicles passed at speed, another pickup stopped.  In it was gentleman with a little whiskered terrier in the front seat.  He said immediately, you may need to sit on a lap but I will take you over the pass.  He immediately set to work shifting his pickup bed into hauling mode, grabbing our panniers from us and helping us load the bikes into the pickup.  We found room in the two seater, with Jim on the console and the terrrier in our laps and were on our way.  The heater was turned way up and we soon were back to a much more comfortable state.  Mick, our Good Samaritan, is a great guy.  He told us all about the country we were driving through, pointing out landmarks and spectacular peaks and spires.  Only problem being, we could not see any of them because of the heavy clouds and fog.  If we had tried to negotiate that stretch of highway it would have been perhaps the most unsafe thing I have ever done.  And I am really not into unsafe.  We were in no shape really to do the climb up Washington Pass, even in good conditions and these conditions could almost not be worse.  Cold, snow, fog, steep climb.  Bad.  

So, we were safe and warm in a nice pickup with a very friendly driver and friendlier 14 year old pup.  Mick asked of course where we planned to stay tonight.  We said Mazama.  He asked would we be willing to go to Twisp, which is about 25 miles down the road and on our route.  We said of course if there is a place to stay.  So happens his friend owns a B&B. He gave him a call and found he did have room and so here I sit in the Methow Valley Inn.  It is great.  Brewpub a block and a half away, laundry, other friendly bikers, fire in the fireplace, a bike shop to clean our bikes.  Not sure how the day which was such a grind could end much better.  Another example of the amazing and wonderful things that happen on bike tours if you are open to it.  

Now we are debating whether to take tomorrow off since it supposed to rain again.  Can not stay here but the innkeeper is going to make some calls and find us a place for tomorrow if we decide to stay over.  

Eventful day.  Tomorrow promises to be much calmer.  Hope I am right.