In 2005 when I did my cross country trip there was one hill which always stuck in my memory. Well actually lots of hills stuck there but this one in particular because it was one of I think two which I could not ride up. While it stuck in memory, I could not remember exactly where in Missouri it was. This trip, since I skipped the roads south of Hannibal by staying on the IL side of the river, I thought I might have missed it. NOT. Found it yesterday. On the road from Sullivan, MO to Potosi, MO. Still could not ride up it. Must be at least 15% grade. That road, by the way, is one on which I will never again ride a bicycle. It is MO route 185 and while I do not like to emphasize the hazards of doing a trip like this, and I try to use the most cautious approach I can, that road is the most dangerous one ever. It is very, very hilly and very, very curvy and busy enough to be hazardous to cyclists. I am going to send my bike touring map and promotion organization, Adventure Cycling Association, a note to that effect.
Anyway, it is over. We will not dwell on it.
185 was yesterday afternoon. Yesterday morning was very pleasant on lovely low traffic roads and I made good time from Washington to Sullivan, MO. At the end of the day I had covered 75 miles and I was dead tired. It was definitely the hardest day of the trip. The weather, luckily, was perfect. About 82, low humidity and little wind.
Today was another hilly day but on beautiful roads with amazing vistas of valleys and ridges with winerys scattered across the hills. The last hill of the day was the hardest, longest and steepest, of course, but I made it to Ozora and am cooling off in the local motel on I-55.
Lots more of feathered victims of collisions with cars and trucks. It is just amazing to see. Today was a red headed woodpecker, cardinal, hawk, crow, meadowlark (2) and a robin. Saw a bunch of (live) wild turkeys and some other turkey-like bird but a little smaller. Not sure what they were.
Today's route was a bit of invention. My trip uses the Great Rivers route and the Trans-Am route of Adventure Cycling route maps. The intersectioon of the two is not smooth or direct. With the help of Mr. Google maps (bicycle directions) and some advice from a local in Potosi I came up with a great connection which saved me many miles and hills.
Today I met 5 different cross country cyclists. The first two were on 3 wheel recumbent bikes and had their dog with them in the trailer behind. They are raising money for organ donation as one is a "donor Mom" whose child was killed and donated a heart and perhaps other organs. She will be going to Denver to meet the boy who recieved her daughter's heart. What a story. I forgot their card but I will put their informaion in a future post so anyone who wants to donate could do that. The next fellow was from Colorado but started his trip in Yorktown, VA and is going to Astoria, OR, the whole ACA TransAm route. The next two were from Germany and were traveling from Detroit to who knows where. They wanted to follow the Missouri River so I believe they will end up on the KATY trail here in MO. They had only a not too detailed road map to go by. True adventurers.
That is it for now. Tomorrow is Carbondale, IL and a rest day. It will put me behind but I need it.
Cheers
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Thursday, May 27, 2010
MO hills
Yesterday I rode Quincy, IL to Clarksville, MO, about 60+ miles. I took George's advice and followed a route down the IL side of the river. The only difference is that on the MO side there are hills and hills and on the IL side, there are not. So it was an easy ride with good roads and little traffic. Crossed the Miss. at Louisiana, MO and had lunch at the Eagle's Nest, where I had lunch in 2005 on my cross country trip. It was great again.
I really wanted to spend some time in Clarksville after riding through in 2005. Not just because of the name connection to me and Dad, but because it had a row of shops with artisans and bistros and local craftsmen which was so appealing on their riverfront street. There is a nice clean country motel there where I stayed after another hot day of riding, although the heat was not an issue until after lunch. To my dismay I found that many of the attractive shops had closed. I learned that a large industry in town, a cement factory, had closed and that the town was "down but not out". There is a new high end restaurant and B&Bs owned my some local millionaire and there is a new funky 'dry saloon' with a very friendly owner across from the motel. I had breakfast there with the locals this morning and got filled in on the situation. I have some innate attachment to this little town and hope to return someday.
After breakfast I took off into the MO hills with some trepidation. Not knowing how my legs and head would respond. Especially since the heat and humidity are still with us. Have I mentioned that I have not had a single day without rain on this trip? Well, guess why I have not mentioned that I have not had a single day without rain? Anyway, it did not rain again today and things went quite well in the hills. Can only hope that that contiunues. I am in Washington, MO west of St. Louis tonight. I am a day behind of my original schedule but only because I have been taking my time and having some fun and relaxation along the way. No reason to push too hard. Last time through this area I was in a bit of a funk in the middle of my cross country trip. This time has been more enjoyable.
Thanks for all your good wishes.
Time to sleep.
I really wanted to spend some time in Clarksville after riding through in 2005. Not just because of the name connection to me and Dad, but because it had a row of shops with artisans and bistros and local craftsmen which was so appealing on their riverfront street. There is a nice clean country motel there where I stayed after another hot day of riding, although the heat was not an issue until after lunch. To my dismay I found that many of the attractive shops had closed. I learned that a large industry in town, a cement factory, had closed and that the town was "down but not out". There is a new high end restaurant and B&Bs owned my some local millionaire and there is a new funky 'dry saloon' with a very friendly owner across from the motel. I had breakfast there with the locals this morning and got filled in on the situation. I have some innate attachment to this little town and hope to return someday.
After breakfast I took off into the MO hills with some trepidation. Not knowing how my legs and head would respond. Especially since the heat and humidity are still with us. Have I mentioned that I have not had a single day without rain on this trip? Well, guess why I have not mentioned that I have not had a single day without rain? Anyway, it did not rain again today and things went quite well in the hills. Can only hope that that contiunues. I am in Washington, MO west of St. Louis tonight. I am a day behind of my original schedule but only because I have been taking my time and having some fun and relaxation along the way. No reason to push too hard. Last time through this area I was in a bit of a funk in the middle of my cross country trip. This time has been more enjoyable.
Thanks for all your good wishes.
Time to sleep.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
You meet the nicest people...
riding a bike.
The part of the previous post which got eaten by the computer somehow basically recalled how I got some advice on my route in Marquette, IA, half of which was great and half of which was pretty darn bad. The first part of that day was great with wonderful roads, even with a designated bike lane. The last part, especially the last few miles from New Vienna to Dyersville were horrendous. In Dyersville luck changed because I asked if the guy who ran the closed bike shop was still around. He was and he delivered a spare tube to me at my hotel. That is Lyle who then helped me out the next day.
So now we are caught up to Muscatine. Next destination Burlington. The ride from Muscatine to Burlington was very nice. The day turned very hot and the wind was in my face but I got to Burlington about 1:30. It was a 63 mile day and I felt I had done as much as I wanted to. My original plan was to keep riding another 20 or so miles to Jess and Doris Lionberger's place. They are a Warmshowers site. That is an online organization where people make themselves available to host touring cyclists if you notify them ahead of time. I called them after I had already checked into a motel. If I had called earlier they probably would have just driven in and picked me up. Oh well.
When I arrived in Burlington I was immediately impressed by the activity and the appearance of the city. It was a Sunday and there was some kind of graduation reception in the terminal building on the riverfront. They have a great Welcome center there. I got great information there. Went to lunch at Big Muddy's. Nice buffet brunch. I think it was my first "senior" meal. $10.99, all you can eat. Good to be old!?!? As I left the restaurant the bicycle police were riding to the riverfront top speed and sirens were all around. A 13 yo had fallen off a dock and drowned.
The ride to Burlington had several road kill turtles and several live ones. They must be moving to lay their eggs. Roads are not good for turtles and other living things. Again I have observed that birds really suffer. Lots of song birds. Bluebirds, cardinals, goldfinches, orioles. Even a hawk on the roadside.
From Burlington, on Monday, I rode to Jess and Doris' place to have a break for pie. Soon, after the pie I was eating breakfast and soon we were having lots of biking conversation and it was getting hot and hotter by the minute. 98% humidity. I decided it was too good a place to leave so soon so I stayed for the day and night. They are in the midst of projects around their farm house and worries about trying to get the rest of their planting done but welcomed me anyway. They are really wonderful supporters of cyclists and cycling, as well as cyclists themselves. After a day of relaxation, reading, napping we took off for Burlington to prepare packets for the bike races in Burlington this coming weekend. Turns out Jess and Doris are responsible for registration and this was the night to stuff envelopes with the numbers of preregistered entrants in the Burlington road race and the Snake Alley Criterium. It was fun to participate and help. I had a chance to ride past Snake Alley on my way to the motel yesterday. It is billed as the world's crookedest street. It is on a hill, a 12% grade, which is really steep. The Category 1/pro racers go up that thing 20 times in their race.
Today promised to be hot and humid again. I got an early start out of Lionberger's and made good progress. The temperatures were not as bad as yesterday and there was a slight headwind to help keep me cooler. The ride was along the river for quite a distance and was very pleasant. I made it to Warsaw at about 10:30 for eggs and biscuits and gravy and some great conversation with locals in the "bakery". I learned that the point out on the river where there is an obelisk commemorating Zachary Taylor, is the only point where you can see 3 different cities in 3 different states. Warsaw, IL, Keokuk, IA and Alexandria, MO. Can you figure out what is unique about these 3 cities?
On the way in to Quincy, IL, today's destination, I ran in to George Reed. He is a friend of Jess and Doris's who is really in to bike touring and was just returning home from several weeks on the road. I had talked to him last night and he had given me some vital road closed information in MO. If I had not stayed with Jess and Doris I would not have learned this and would have had an unpleasant surprise tomorrow. We thought we might end up at the same motel in Quincy tonight but he got to Q at noon and 'only' had another 60 miles to go to home so he is pushing on. He said he would get to Warsaw, about 30 miles from home and call his sister to come pick him up.
So there we are. So far so good. Tomorrow I will cross to MO at Louisiana (city in MO). There could be rain.
Later.
The part of the previous post which got eaten by the computer somehow basically recalled how I got some advice on my route in Marquette, IA, half of which was great and half of which was pretty darn bad. The first part of that day was great with wonderful roads, even with a designated bike lane. The last part, especially the last few miles from New Vienna to Dyersville were horrendous. In Dyersville luck changed because I asked if the guy who ran the closed bike shop was still around. He was and he delivered a spare tube to me at my hotel. That is Lyle who then helped me out the next day.
So now we are caught up to Muscatine. Next destination Burlington. The ride from Muscatine to Burlington was very nice. The day turned very hot and the wind was in my face but I got to Burlington about 1:30. It was a 63 mile day and I felt I had done as much as I wanted to. My original plan was to keep riding another 20 or so miles to Jess and Doris Lionberger's place. They are a Warmshowers site. That is an online organization where people make themselves available to host touring cyclists if you notify them ahead of time. I called them after I had already checked into a motel. If I had called earlier they probably would have just driven in and picked me up. Oh well.
When I arrived in Burlington I was immediately impressed by the activity and the appearance of the city. It was a Sunday and there was some kind of graduation reception in the terminal building on the riverfront. They have a great Welcome center there. I got great information there. Went to lunch at Big Muddy's. Nice buffet brunch. I think it was my first "senior" meal. $10.99, all you can eat. Good to be old!?!? As I left the restaurant the bicycle police were riding to the riverfront top speed and sirens were all around. A 13 yo had fallen off a dock and drowned.
The ride to Burlington had several road kill turtles and several live ones. They must be moving to lay their eggs. Roads are not good for turtles and other living things. Again I have observed that birds really suffer. Lots of song birds. Bluebirds, cardinals, goldfinches, orioles. Even a hawk on the roadside.
From Burlington, on Monday, I rode to Jess and Doris' place to have a break for pie. Soon, after the pie I was eating breakfast and soon we were having lots of biking conversation and it was getting hot and hotter by the minute. 98% humidity. I decided it was too good a place to leave so soon so I stayed for the day and night. They are in the midst of projects around their farm house and worries about trying to get the rest of their planting done but welcomed me anyway. They are really wonderful supporters of cyclists and cycling, as well as cyclists themselves. After a day of relaxation, reading, napping we took off for Burlington to prepare packets for the bike races in Burlington this coming weekend. Turns out Jess and Doris are responsible for registration and this was the night to stuff envelopes with the numbers of preregistered entrants in the Burlington road race and the Snake Alley Criterium. It was fun to participate and help. I had a chance to ride past Snake Alley on my way to the motel yesterday. It is billed as the world's crookedest street. It is on a hill, a 12% grade, which is really steep. The Category 1/pro racers go up that thing 20 times in their race.
Today promised to be hot and humid again. I got an early start out of Lionberger's and made good progress. The temperatures were not as bad as yesterday and there was a slight headwind to help keep me cooler. The ride was along the river for quite a distance and was very pleasant. I made it to Warsaw at about 10:30 for eggs and biscuits and gravy and some great conversation with locals in the "bakery". I learned that the point out on the river where there is an obelisk commemorating Zachary Taylor, is the only point where you can see 3 different cities in 3 different states. Warsaw, IL, Keokuk, IA and Alexandria, MO. Can you figure out what is unique about these 3 cities?
On the way in to Quincy, IL, today's destination, I ran in to George Reed. He is a friend of Jess and Doris's who is really in to bike touring and was just returning home from several weeks on the road. I had talked to him last night and he had given me some vital road closed information in MO. If I had not stayed with Jess and Doris I would not have learned this and would have had an unpleasant surprise tomorrow. We thought we might end up at the same motel in Quincy tonight but he got to Q at noon and 'only' had another 60 miles to go to home so he is pushing on. He said he would get to Warsaw, about 30 miles from home and call his sister to come pick him up.
So there we are. So far so good. Tomorrow I will cross to MO at Louisiana (city in MO). There could be rain.
Later.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Stuff happens
NOTE: This post got truncated somehow. I will fix it later.
So, I had a quiet evening in Dyersville. Never made it to the Field of Dreams field and filming site.
Next morning I headed out using a route suggested by Lyle when he dilivered my tube. The route was fine but a few miles down the road the fun began. My tire bead came off the rim of the wheel, like it had when I hit the rock. This time I stopped and prevented a blowout but when I tried to put the tire back on it came off the rim again, before I even had the wheel on the bike again. So I had to use my spare tire and I would not have a spare. I had awoke with a sore thoat and began to wonder if I should just stay in Dyersville, get things squared around and rest. I called Lyle again to see if he could help. He said he could get a new tire and another tube to me but it would take an hour or more. So in the end it took over 2 1/2 hours from start to finishe to get back on the road but Lyle came through again. Then, as I started out, the wind had come up and it was blowing hard. I got on the road, fighting the strong cross wind. Ran into Road Closed signs, figured I could get around what ever it was. Wrong. Had to detour, back on 136 to get to Cascade. The wind was the worst I have ever ridden in which actually says a lot after North Dakota. I limped into Cascade and determined that I would need to find a place to stay in this motel-less community. They have a beautiful stone City Hall and I went in. Shelley was behind the desk. Deputy Clerk. I explained my plight and my hope to find a cyclist or someone in town who could put me up. Between the wind and the coming rain camping did not look inviting and I was not feeling particularly well. She found a terrific guy, Jerry Volk, and his wife Mary, who agreed to let me stay with them. It turned out great. I had a great stay with them, and their dog Chance.
Next day was soggy and I rode only about 30 miles to Lowden and stayed at the Lincoln Hotel, one of the last surviving original hotels on the Lincoln Highway, the country's first cross country highway. Weather cleard over night and I made it to Muscatine today. Now it will be strategy time as I am a day behind my schedule. Hopefully Jim, who I plan to meet in Cave in Rock, and I can connect and synchronize our plans.
Supposed to have heat and headwinds tomorrow so it could get more interesting yet.
So, I had a quiet evening in Dyersville. Never made it to the Field of Dreams field and filming site.
Next morning I headed out using a route suggested by Lyle when he dilivered my tube. The route was fine but a few miles down the road the fun began. My tire bead came off the rim of the wheel, like it had when I hit the rock. This time I stopped and prevented a blowout but when I tried to put the tire back on it came off the rim again, before I even had the wheel on the bike again. So I had to use my spare tire and I would not have a spare. I had awoke with a sore thoat and began to wonder if I should just stay in Dyersville, get things squared around and rest. I called Lyle again to see if he could help. He said he could get a new tire and another tube to me but it would take an hour or more. So in the end it took over 2 1/2 hours from start to finishe to get back on the road but Lyle came through again. Then, as I started out, the wind had come up and it was blowing hard. I got on the road, fighting the strong cross wind. Ran into Road Closed signs, figured I could get around what ever it was. Wrong. Had to detour, back on 136 to get to Cascade. The wind was the worst I have ever ridden in which actually says a lot after North Dakota. I limped into Cascade and determined that I would need to find a place to stay in this motel-less community. They have a beautiful stone City Hall and I went in. Shelley was behind the desk. Deputy Clerk. I explained my plight and my hope to find a cyclist or someone in town who could put me up. Between the wind and the coming rain camping did not look inviting and I was not feeling particularly well. She found a terrific guy, Jerry Volk, and his wife Mary, who agreed to let me stay with them. It turned out great. I had a great stay with them, and their dog Chance.
Next day was soggy and I rode only about 30 miles to Lowden and stayed at the Lincoln Hotel, one of the last surviving original hotels on the Lincoln Highway, the country's first cross country highway. Weather cleard over night and I made it to Muscatine today. Now it will be strategy time as I am a day behind my schedule. Hopefully Jim, who I plan to meet in Cave in Rock, and I can connect and synchronize our plans.
Supposed to have heat and headwinds tomorrow so it could get more interesting yet.
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Not where I meant to be, but it's nice
Today was day 4 of this trip. I am in Prairie du Chien, WI. Thought I would end up in Monona, IA, about 15 miles west of here. Turns out there is no place to stay there (I thought there was) and there is no good place between here and there. Boring...
Day 1 was about 53 miles from home to Jan and Tom Buckman's place near Ellsworth, WI and just across the Mississippi from Red Wing. Had not seen them since the last funeral so it was nice to visit without that reason. They have a great spot which they have created with their own hands, in a beautiful location on a ravine, pretty isolated and quiet. It was very nice to catch up and we definitely need to get back to visit again. The ride over there was good except for the stretch of US 10 from Prescott to the turn at US 63. Difficult ride because of narrow shoulders and high traffic. And it was the first day out and at the end of it I was seriously considering leaving behind all my camping gear to lighten my load and just do motels. In the end I decided to hang with the plan and left after a great breakfast on Sunday morning with all of my gear.
Sunday was a long day to Winona. Stuck with my Adventure Cycling route map out of Red Wing, up a long climb which got the legs and lungs working again. After that I stayed on US 61 the rest of the way instead of taking the county roads on the ACA route. I saved a few miles and is actually not a bad road to ride. The traffic noise is the worst part but there is a wide shoulder and you stay right on the river so the scenery is really nice. Riding down the river, counting the riding yesterday and today, is as beautiful and scenic as any I have done. Every place has its beauty, but this ride is right in there.
For jaw dropping vistas and riding yesterday from Winona to New Albin, IA was really the bomb. I did take the county roads off of 61 and it was really worth it. Riding through Pickwick and other quaint villages in the hollows and ravines off the river reminded me why I really love doing this. The spiritual experience of silently moving through these places, at a human pace is difficult to put in words. It is the reason to keep getting out here. And there are so many places to go and to see. And I have never heard so many birds. You can not do that travelling any other way.
I did the route down east side of the river, Wisconsin and Illinois, when I rode across the US in 2005. This time I am on the west side. The route will be the same once I get to Dallas City, IL, where I cross over from Burlington, IA. Then I will cross again to Hannibal, MO. Down to Chester, IL and across Illinois to Cave In Rock where you cross the Ohio on a ferry and in to Kentucky.
Today I started in New Albin, IA where I asked if I could camp in the town park because the campground I had planned on was not really a campground. So I slept in the park under the street light and did just fine. Today was highlighted by several experiences. First were three major climbs in the morning. Worthy of the Blue Ridge Parkway. I was slow but steady and got over those. Then I had to ride on the worst road to date this trip, state road 76 in Iowa. I won't go into detail there. Just glad it is over. On 76 was the Effigy Mounds National Monument. Stopped there and ate a 400 calorie bar, found out my intended destination was not going to work, and saw some of the mounds and some spectacular bluff views. The mounds are burial mounds of the Hopewell native people, constructed about 1000 BC. Some are in the shape of animals, usually bears. They are quiet amazing.
Then, after the mounds, it was back on 76 for the last three miles into Marquette, IA. The road runs right along the sheer limstone cliffs and chunks of rock litter the road. I hit a chunk. It sounded bad and less than half a mile later I learned it was bad when my rear tube blew. I thought the rock had torn the tire but I inspected it over and over and it was fine so I guess the rock and knocked the bead of the tire off the rim and the tube had bulged out until it finally blew. There was little to no room to even pull off the road but I figured it out and got the tube changed. Can not have any more of these since I do not have another tube. No more flats!
That is the story so far. The weather has been perfect. Too much sun actually. Wind so far has been favorable.
Tomorrow it is Dyersville, IA hopefully. Then I will be on schedule. If not I will have some catching up to do to meet Jim on June 2 at Cave In Rock, IL.
Cheers.
Day 1 was about 53 miles from home to Jan and Tom Buckman's place near Ellsworth, WI and just across the Mississippi from Red Wing. Had not seen them since the last funeral so it was nice to visit without that reason. They have a great spot which they have created with their own hands, in a beautiful location on a ravine, pretty isolated and quiet. It was very nice to catch up and we definitely need to get back to visit again. The ride over there was good except for the stretch of US 10 from Prescott to the turn at US 63. Difficult ride because of narrow shoulders and high traffic. And it was the first day out and at the end of it I was seriously considering leaving behind all my camping gear to lighten my load and just do motels. In the end I decided to hang with the plan and left after a great breakfast on Sunday morning with all of my gear.
Sunday was a long day to Winona. Stuck with my Adventure Cycling route map out of Red Wing, up a long climb which got the legs and lungs working again. After that I stayed on US 61 the rest of the way instead of taking the county roads on the ACA route. I saved a few miles and is actually not a bad road to ride. The traffic noise is the worst part but there is a wide shoulder and you stay right on the river so the scenery is really nice. Riding down the river, counting the riding yesterday and today, is as beautiful and scenic as any I have done. Every place has its beauty, but this ride is right in there.
For jaw dropping vistas and riding yesterday from Winona to New Albin, IA was really the bomb. I did take the county roads off of 61 and it was really worth it. Riding through Pickwick and other quaint villages in the hollows and ravines off the river reminded me why I really love doing this. The spiritual experience of silently moving through these places, at a human pace is difficult to put in words. It is the reason to keep getting out here. And there are so many places to go and to see. And I have never heard so many birds. You can not do that travelling any other way.
I did the route down east side of the river, Wisconsin and Illinois, when I rode across the US in 2005. This time I am on the west side. The route will be the same once I get to Dallas City, IL, where I cross over from Burlington, IA. Then I will cross again to Hannibal, MO. Down to Chester, IL and across Illinois to Cave In Rock where you cross the Ohio on a ferry and in to Kentucky.
Today I started in New Albin, IA where I asked if I could camp in the town park because the campground I had planned on was not really a campground. So I slept in the park under the street light and did just fine. Today was highlighted by several experiences. First were three major climbs in the morning. Worthy of the Blue Ridge Parkway. I was slow but steady and got over those. Then I had to ride on the worst road to date this trip, state road 76 in Iowa. I won't go into detail there. Just glad it is over. On 76 was the Effigy Mounds National Monument. Stopped there and ate a 400 calorie bar, found out my intended destination was not going to work, and saw some of the mounds and some spectacular bluff views. The mounds are burial mounds of the Hopewell native people, constructed about 1000 BC. Some are in the shape of animals, usually bears. They are quiet amazing.
Then, after the mounds, it was back on 76 for the last three miles into Marquette, IA. The road runs right along the sheer limstone cliffs and chunks of rock litter the road. I hit a chunk. It sounded bad and less than half a mile later I learned it was bad when my rear tube blew. I thought the rock had torn the tire but I inspected it over and over and it was fine so I guess the rock and knocked the bead of the tire off the rim and the tube had bulged out until it finally blew. There was little to no room to even pull off the road but I figured it out and got the tube changed. Can not have any more of these since I do not have another tube. No more flats!
That is the story so far. The weather has been perfect. Too much sun actually. Wind so far has been favorable.
Tomorrow it is Dyersville, IA hopefully. Then I will be on schedule. If not I will have some catching up to do to meet Jim on June 2 at Cave In Rock, IL.
Cheers.
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