Up and out of the Port Wing cabin with a quick microwave breakfast of yesterday's pancakes and butter and syrup from the Bear's Paw. We hit the road at 6:30, wanting to get to Duluth with some time in the afternoon for a bike shop visit and a look around Canal Park. There were also some unknowns about getting through Superior and to the bridge to cross. The day was another sunny one with some west wind which would at times be in our face but it was not that bad. Temps
We were on route 13 again until we got to a trail that would take us in to Superior. The highway was good again all the way as it stair-stepped it's way for 34 miles to our turn just short of US2. There were several steep down and up river crossings on the way. There was also a lot of flat Wisconsin countryside. Not as forested as previous days. Had a couple of rest stops before we finished with highway 13.
When we got to the trail it was as suspected, gravel. But there was no choice to use the highway as non motorized were prohibited. So we ventured forth on the trail and found it not too bad if we stayed on the edge where it was firm. Got to the start of the paved trail and we were more than ready for second breakfast. There across highway 2 was Choo Choo's Restaurant. Hard by the tracks of course. We are in there!
Had a good meal, got good advice on getting through the city and we were ready for the rest of the day with bellies full. Something one learns when getting directions from a local who is not a bicyclist is that you must keep reminding them "we are on bicycles". Our well meaning waiter's first response was to direct us down US 2. Heavy, heavy traffic, four lanes and zero shoulder. So, no we will be on the trail. Once we got it clear his directions were perfect.
The trail is in need of maintenance but got us to our street to cross Superior and get to the path that crosses the Bong Bridge which carries US2 to Duluth. The path was adequate width for us but if we had met anyone it would have been tricky. We got across,with some photos at the top, and on to streets I am familiar with, having transited Duluth in the past. Jim needed to find a bike shop for new brake pads and that required some back tracking with assistance from a guy in a truck who asked if we needed help and ultimately he drove past the shop to make sure where it was and then found us again to confirm. Pretty special people in Duluth. We went Twin Ports Cyclery on 3rd Ave. Great shop. Got stories from the owner Denis while we waited. Including advice to ride over the bridge on the road, not the path. Not sure there will be another time for me.
Made it to Canal Park so I could show Jim the lift bridge and the fun center of the port city. Had an ice cream cone at Grandma's rail car.
We had been updating our Warm Showers hosts as we progressed through the day. They were leaving the house in east Duluth at 2:30 to go to a wedding but would leave the front door of the house open.
Warm Showeres is an international organization of people who sign up to host traveling cyclists. Marybeth in Negaunee was one. And the Schmidts of Duluth are as well.
We got on the Lakewalk trail along the shore and turned off on 40th Ave which runs past Duluth East HS and on to Schmidt's. We had fair warning about Teddy the dog and were reassured he would be no problem. Indeed. We opened the door, called his name and were greeted with a lick and a smile. You do pay for that super friendly demeanor with lots of petting and scratching.
We showered and relaxed and went to dinner at the New London Cafe down the street. Very good hot roast beef with mashed potatoes and gravy. John and Shelly returned about 7:30. We had a great time trading stories. They were full of questions. Their daughter and son-in-law are on a round the world bike tour and they had just returned from having met up with them in South Korea. We talked a bit about families and careers but mostly about how we travel on bikes.
In the morning we packed up our clean clothes and the Schmidts made us a grade A+ breakfast. We took pictures, including Teddy of course. The day was partly sunny and windy. We got underway at 8:30. Took the rest of the Lakewalk trail to join up with the Scenic North Shore Drive.
Up and out of the Port Wing cabin with a quick microwave breakfast of yesterday's pancakes and butter and syrup from the Bear's Paw. We hit the road at 6:30, wanting to get to Duluth with some time in the afternoon for a bike shop visit and a look around Canal Park. There were also some unknowns about getting through Superior and to the bridge to cross. The day was another sunny one with some west wind which would at times be in our face but it was not that bad. Temps
We were on route 13 again until we got to a trail that would take us in to Superior. The highway was good again all the way as it stair-stepped it's way for 34 miles to our turn just short of US2. There were several steep down and up river crossings on the way. There was also a lot of flat Wisconsin countryside. Not as forested as previous days. Had a couple of rest stops before we finished with highway 13.
When we got to the trail it was as suspected, gravel. But there was no choice to use the highway as non motorized were prohibited. So we ventured forth on the trail and found it not too bad if we stayed on the edge where it was firm. Got to the start of the paved trail and we were more than ready for second breakfast. There across highway 2 was Choo Choo's Restaurant. Hard by the tracks of course. We are in there!
Had a good meal, got good advice on getting through the city and we were ready for the rest of the day with bellies full. Something one learns when getting directions from a local who is not a bicyclist is that you must keep reminding them "we are on bicycles". Our well meaning waiter's first response was to direct us down US 2. Heavy, heavy traffic, four lanes and zero shoulder. So, no we will be on the trail. Once we got it clear his directions were perfect.
The trail is in need of maintenance but got us to our street to cross Superior and get to the path that crosses the Bong Bridge which carries US2 to Duluth. The path was adequate width for us but if we had met anyone it would have been tricky. We got across,with some photos at the top, and on to streets I am familiar with, having transited Duluth in the past. Jim needed to find a bike shop for new brake pads and that required some back tracking with assistance from a guy in a truck who asked if we needed help and ultimately he drove past the shop to make sure where it was and then found us again to confirm. Pretty special people in Duluth. We went Twin Ports Cyclery on 3rd Ave. Great shop. Got stories from the owner Denis while we waited. Including advice to ride over the bridge on the road, not the path. Not sure there will be another time for me.
Made it to Canal Park so I could show Jim the lift bridge and the fun center of the port city. Had an ice cream cone at Grandma's rail car.
We had been updating our Warm Showers hosts as we progressed through the day. They were leaving the house in east Duluth at 2:30 to go to a wedding but would leave the front door of the house open.
Warm Showeres is an international organization of people who sign up to host traveling cyclists. Marybeth in Negaunee was one. And the Schmidts of Duluth are as well.
We got on the Lakewalk trail along the shore and turned off on 40th Ave which runs past Duluth East HS and on to Schmidt's. We had fair warning about Teddy the dog and were reassured he would be no problem. Indeed. We opened the door, called his name and were greeted with a lick and a smile. You do pay for that super friendly demeanor with lots of petting and scratching.
We showered and relaxed and went to dinner at the New London Cafe down the street. Very good hot roast beef with mashed potatoes and gravy. John and Shelly returned about 7:30. We had a great time trading stories. They were full of questions. Their daughter and son-in-law are on a round the world bike tour and they had just returned from having met up with them in South Korea. We talked a bit about families and careers but mostly about how we travel on bikes.
In the morning we packed up our clean clothes and the Schmidts made us a grade A+ breakfast. We took pictures, including Teddy of course. The day was partly sunny and windy. We got underway at 8:30. Took the rest of the Lakewalk trail to join up with the Scenic North Shore Drive.
We headed out into a steady and strong headwind. Coming right off the lake at an angle that was not conducive to easy riding. Stopped at Tom's Lumber Camp for a break. Made decent time given the wind and counted down the miles in reverse with the markings for Grandma's Marathon. We had our lunch at Subway in Two Harbors. When we came out the temperature had drop and we put on more clothes. Now we were on Highway 61 and the traffic level was much worse than before. The wind continued relentless. The climb up around Silver Creek Cliff on the bike trail was longer than I remembered. Finally, by the time we reached Gooseberry Falls my energy was all used up. When we reached Split Rock SP it began to rain and the wind picked up some more. We had tried riding on the road instead of the trail to a more direct route but it was not comfortable. So in Split Rock the trail curves and climbs and descends all over the place not that much fun when you are exhausted. We finally got to the park entrance building and took a break from the rain.
We went on past Beaver Bay. We had talked about how tired I was and agreed instead of camping at Tettegouche SP we would find a motel room. Silver Bay is only a couple miles from our intended destination so despite the troubles we are not behind.
The Mariner Motel was the first we saw and we went to check out a room. It is impressively clean and a classic with knotty pine walls. It is run by a delightful old Polish couple. Chatting and kidding with them helped turn my attitude around from feeling defeated.
We ordered spaghetti and lasagna delivered from the local pizza place and had a relaxing dinner in our comfy room. Thunderstorms rolled in and we were happy to not be in the campground. Watched the Penquins win the Stanley Cup. Tomorrow is another day.
We headed out into a steady and strong headwind. Coming right off the lake at an angle that was not conducive to easy riding. Stopped at Tom's Lumber Camp for a break. Made decent time given the wind and counted down the miles in reverse with the markings for Grandma's Marathon. We had our lunch at Subway in Two Harbors. When we came out the temperature had drop and we put on more clothes. Now we were on Highway 61 and the traffic level was much worse than before. The wind continued relentless. The climb up around Silver Creek Cliff on the bike trail was longer than I remembered. Finally, by the time we reached Gooseberry Falls my energy was all used up. When we reached Split Rock SP it began to rain and the wind picked up some more. We had tried riding on the road instead of the trail to a more direct route but it was not comfortable. So in Split Rock the trail curves and climbs and descends all over the place not that much fun when you are exhausted. We finally got to the park entrance building and took a break from the rain.
We went on past Beaver Bay. We had talked about how tired I was and agreed instead of camping at Tettegouche SP we would find a motel room. Silver Bay is only a couple miles from our intended destination so despite the troubles we are not behind.
The Mariner Motel was the first we saw and we went to check out a room. It is impressively clean and a classic with knotty pine walls. It is run by a delightful old Polish couple. Chatting and kidding with them helped turn my attitude around from feeling defeated.
We ordered spaghetti and lasagna delivered from the local pizza place and had a relaxing dinner in our comfy room. Thunderstorms rolled in and we were happy to not be in the campground. Watched the Penquins win the Stanley Cup. Tomorrow is another day.
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